Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa

Here are some pictures that I have taken here in Z-town and Ixtapa.

1. A crocadile in the marina Ixtapa. This was taken just off the back of our boat, less that 20 ft. from us, (Yikes!)
2. Mel on the walking bath from Playa Madera to Playa Ropa at Bahia Zihuatenajo.
3. A view of the fishing pangas at Playa Madera. This next to where we land our dingy when we want to go ashore.
4. Sunset at anchor at Isl. Ixtapa
5. A afternoon basketball game in Z-Town, note it is right by the beach. This is also next to the town "square" where there is music on Tue. and Thurs. nights. Other nights families and teens gather and the young children play in the court.
6. Me by the bus station
7. Boats at anchor in the bay (Z-Town, this is where we spent about a week)

Manzanillo to Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Jan. 28 - Feb. 4 2011

From Manzanillo to Zihuatanejo (Z-Town) is nearly 200 miles this stretch is relatively remote and isolated. The anchorages along the way lack protection and can be very "rolley" which does not allow for a good nights sleep. For these reasons many cruisers decide to sail through the night to get to Z-Town.

This too is what we have decided to do. We have talked to another boat in our anchorage here in Bahia Las Hadas and there are several boats leaving that will also sail through the night. We therefore all plan to buddy boat down. When you buddy boat you are able to keep in contact with the other boats. This is helpful as we all can look out for each other.

Mel and I stand 4 hour watches. As I like my sleep in the middle of the night I take the 9pm to 1am watch for my night watch. Let me explain a bit about sailing/motoring the boat at night. No we do not have headlights to see forward. What we do have is a chartplotter, radar and AIS systems. A chartplotter is a screen that I have at the helm of the boat displaying the chart on it. The chart also shows our boat moving along. I can overlay the radar screen onto this same screen. Radar will show a "blob" of purple if there is something within its range so you can avoid it. The size of the blob helps you determin what it is. The AIS system is carried by all large boats and now many small motor and sailing vessels. With this device you send, and receive a signal. This signal is then displayed on your chartplotter screen as a triangle where the vessel is located. You can then hover your curser over the triangle and it will display the data on that ship, name, speed, how close it is to you, direction it is going etc. Then you can avoid getting into its path. And remember they can then see me too. If I need or want I can also call the ship on our VHF radio to talk with them and be sure that they see me and I can give them our position.

So with all this information you are able to set your course and watch for other boats and/or land in your way. Our boat also has autopilot so the boat can steer its self. This means your hands are free and you can read, go down and make a quick snack etc. while monetoring your screen and of course looking all around your boat regularly.

Along this trip we had very little wind so we motored all the way. We were lucky enough to see many sea turtles. They look like big helments floating on the water. We also were treated to dolphins and whales. And, drum roll please, I caught a 30" Dorado, (see picture)!

We arrived at our first destination Isla Grande early afternoon on Saturday (the 29th) after 31 hours of motoring. We anchor do a few chores and take a long nap.

Isla Grande is a small island that is used as a island getaway by Ixtapa and Z-town residents and tourists alike. The soft sand beach is lined with many palapa resturants serving cold beer and fresh caught seafood. We dingy over and enjoy the servings of the nearest palapa. We spend a couple of days here before we head to Z-Town.

We arrive in Z-Town on the first day of Sail-Fest, an annual five-day festival hosted by a group of volunteers with a goal to rais money and awareness for the education of children in the area. There are boat races, concerts (small), a boat parade and beach games. We sign up to be a host boat for the parade. Sail-fest then sells the boat rides to people as a fundraiser.

We have 4 fun Canadians on our boat, Keith, Joy, Diane, and Audrey. We have a fun day in the Parade. For the parade the boats follow the Port Capt. first, around the Z-Town bay then over to Ixtapa. Here he stops and as all the boats pass him they salute and wave there flag. As we had so many Canadian's I get out my Canada flag and we wave both the US and Canada Flag. The rest of the day we went to Isl. Grande for lunch. See picture above.

Zihuatanejo, is a wonderful place... The pre-hispanic history of Z-Town began with the Cuitlatec people. These people were known for growing agiculture and for production of cotton blankets and carved scallp shells. In the 1400's after an invasion by the Aztec's much of the area in Zihuatanejo were abandoned by the Cuitlatec. In the 1500's the Spanish conquistabors arrived and began exploring and eventually colonizing the area.

Mel and I have really fell in love with this town. The food is great, the people are very nice, the town is clean and the music and entertainment is outstanding. We plan on staying here for a few weeks. We hope to see even more. We will be seeing Mel's daughter and family here next week. We are looking forward to that....

Manzanillo

Manzanillo has hundreds of years of maritime history. The orginal Mesoamerican inhabitants used Bahia Santiago and Bahia Manznillo as a port of call for their trade routes, much of what is documented started with the Spanish conquistaor exploration of the Pacific Mexico shoreline.

Hernan Cortes came there in search of the rumored trade routes between China and the orginal inhabitants of Pacific Mexico. Manzanillo is still a major shipping port for Pacific Mexico. It also is a cruise ship destination. The large sailfish sclupture you see here in located in the jardin (garden) near the waterfront. From here we walked the narrow streets with various vendors serving both the tourists and locals alike. We were too late in the day to visit the Mercado 5 de Mayo reported to be filled with local fresh fruit, veggies fish, and eating booths.

The picture of the large white hotel is the Hotel Las Hadas. We are anchored in Las Hadas bay just in front. It is a beautiful place. There is a small marina there which allows us to tie up our dingy. From here we can catch a cab or a bus to town.

Suspecting that 'eight-fingered dentistry' might be OK in Mexico, Mel has been searching the towns for a suitable dental practice with ocean views. However not being successful and with time running short, he has now lowered his sights a bit and is currently waiting for the dentist pictured to roll up his door so that an offer to purchase can be made. Absent a deal, Mel assumes he will have to continue cruising to warmer waters for the foreseeable future.

We only have 2 days here on our trip south. There are several boats that will be leaving for Zihuatanejo at daybreak so we have decided to0 buddy boat with them as it is about a 36 hour sail/motor from here. We hope to spend more time here on our return trip north.

Our current plans are to stay in "Z-Town" for a few weeks. We will meet up with Mel's daughter Kristine and her family as they take a vacation there. It will be fun to see them and especially the granddaughters.

Remember you can click on the pictures for a larger size.

Tenacatita to Barra De Navidad

January 19, We raise anchor in Tenacatita at 9am heading for Barra De Navidad. We only have a short distance to go, about 15 miles. We motor the whole way as there is little wind. I set out our fishing lines with pinky squid and bluey squid with no luck. We see whales spouting and swimming close by. We also see another sea turtle. There are 55 species of sea turtles along this coast. The green sea turtle, hawksbill, leatherback, loggerhead and the olive ridley. These ancient creatures spend nearly their entire life in the water and can life up to 80 years. Adult leatherbacks are the largest ranging in size from 4 to 6 feet long and weighting from 400 to 1,100 lbs. I do not think this is what we saw. I think we saw a green.

We also pass through a small cove with the most brightly painted houses that cantaleaver (spelling??) out from the cliffs, they are beautiful.

The anchorage for Barra is in a lagoon. To enter the lagoon you first enter into a narrow channel. We have a good guide "Pacific Mexico a Cruiser's Guidebook" by Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer. In this book they lay out the waypoints to safely enter the lagoon. Once there there is good but shallow anchorage.

The best way to get to Barra Navidad from your boat is to call a water taxi. These pangas come and get you for 25 pesos each, round trip. We head into town to explore and eat. Barra Navidad is a small fishing and tourest town with both gringo and mexican vacationeers. We find a great bar, Pipers-Lover for music and drinks. Luckly the pangas run 24 hours, just flick the light switch on the dock to signal the driver.
We say goodby to Al and Barb here. Mel and I stay for 6 days.

We were lucky to be here during a fishing tournament. On the last day we sat at the head of the channel and watched the boats come in with their catches tied to the swim steps of their boats. There were Dorado's and Marlins (see pictures) Iguess the boat with the most fish over the 3 days wins.

One of the requirements when you are cruising in Mexico is to check your boat in with the Port Captain if there is one in your location. The thing is, they are never near the water. We located the Port Capt. here by asking; first a taxi driver (the directions were in Spainsh so we got little from that) then we asked a gringo who lived there. He had us go through two vacant lots, down a small cobble stone street, and another block. We found it at 3pm, they close at 2:30. At least we now know where it is, so we check in 2 days later.

In the lagoon we get some much needed cleaning projects done. In the evening we sit in the cockpit and watch the fishing boats fish with their nets. Usually this is with a small row boat and a man, he rows in a circle playing out his net. Then he stands and slowly pulls it back in. The fish are caught by their gills, he carefully removes the small fish and drops it into a bucket. He then rows to a new location and repeats the process. While we watched I only saw them get one or two small fish each time. Looks like a hard way to make a living.

Our next destination is Manzanillo. A large city and port. Here we will be able to provision, and hopefully find some boat parts that we need.

Bahia (Bay) Chamela to Tenacatita

We leave Bahia Chamela for a short sail (motor) to Paraiso. A little gem of an anchorage. This small ancorage only has room for a boat or two. We are lucky, as we are the only boat. We lower the dingy and explore the shore and take a swim. There is a small resort located here but it appears to be deserted, except for the caretaker and a friendly dog.

It is a beautiful eveining so we decide to bbq. I have a lovely pork-loin in the bbq, as I turn it the entire bbq turns over and I loose the porkloin and the innerparts of the bbq. Now how am I going to get replacement parts for that into Mexico? I should inject here, it is very difficult to get things shipped into Mexico. It seems that the customs people must look at every package to see if it is something they may need at home. If it is not, then, if you are lucky it will arrive at the intended destination in a few weeks. So most of the boaters must resort to alternative means. If you are on your way to Mexico, please let us know, we may need you to bring us something.

Our next stop is Tenacatita. For many boaters, this is the destination they have dreamed of. With white sandy beaches, local hospitality, good food, and a comfortable ancorage, this is what the dreams of Mexico cruising were made of

We anchor and snorkle for the afternoon at the "aquarium", a beach area with several reefs. There are many fish but the water is not as clear as the Sea of Cortez. Our final anchor here is near the Hotel Blue Bay. The next morning we dingy out to take the estuary tour. The dingy tour though the lush mangrove lined Estero Verde is one of the best highlights of our stay in Tenacatita. You meander along the estuary for 2.5 miles. It is teaming with wildlife, egrets, many birds, racoons, crabs, and lined with mangroves. I tried to get pictures of all the birds but they were camera shy.

We have one of our best meals here at a smal lpalpa, La Vena. I had Roll-del Mar Yum. Mel had the most tasty fish yet.

We have a nice walk on the beach. This beach has a protected area for sea turtle egg nests. It is a fenced off area where the eggs are taken to be buried. If you are lucky you can be there when they hatch. Volunteers they take them to the ocean to be released.

Things we saw along the way:

Whales breaching

dolphins playing at our bow

SEA TURTLES!

La Paz to Chamela

We left La Paz in a "Northern". This is a weather term that they use here. It usually means that there will be very high winds coming from the North into the Sea of Cortez. This causes an uncomfortable seas. Most folks wait it out prior to making a crossing to the mainland. Most people are making a crossing to Mazatlan and then they may head south along the coast. We wanted to head further south so we looked at several weather predictions and decided that we would be fine as we were heading south east rather that a straight east.
We have invited Al and his wife Barb to come along to help crew. It is easier for watches etc. to have an extra hand or two.
It took us 72 hours to make it to Chamela.
The first day and most of the second we had favorable winds but high lumpy seas. This made it difficult to get meals prepared but the boat sailed fine. We were able to make good time during this.

We are currently anchored on the east side of Isla Pajerera in Bahia (Bay) Chamela. Last evening we hired a panga to take us to shore where we ate one of the small palapa's on the beach. The panga then took us back to the boat. Along the way he gave us fishing tips..

We will head to the next anchorage soon on our way to Manzanillo.

Se Habla- La Paz

We are still in La Paz. We have spent some more time in La Paz after our last excursion to the islands. We have been waiting for another boat to arrive that is delivering some parts for us from the U.S. As it is difficult to get things shipped to Mexico this is a common way to get parts for your boat. It is taking a long time though because there was a big "northern" that kept the boat from contiueing to La Paz from Cabo.

We decided to take advantage of our extra time here with Spanish lessons. There is a great little school here called Se Habla...La Paz. We were only able to take a weeks worth of lessons but it has been very helpful.

We learned the proper pronunciation of the vowels. Learned to conjugate verbs etc. We now have a good base to contiue to practice on our own.

We truly have enjoyed La Paz. It is a great city with lots of things to do and see. The people are very friendly, it is a good spot for cruisers. There is even a club for cruisers here that sponsores a morning "net" in the vhf radio and publishes a handy guide to services in La Paz.

The parts we have been waiting for arrived on Friday (Dec. 3rd) so we are now free to explore the area. We will take another short trip to the islands here. We fly home on Dec. 11th for 3 weeks, so there will not be further postings until the first of the year.

The picture is in La Paz looking down the Malacon and the pangas on the beach.

Happy Holidays !!